⚡ Power Precision Meets Pro Portability — Never Miss a Beat in Your Lab!
The NICE-POWER DC Bench Power Supply delivers adjustable 30V/10A output with ultra-precise 4-digit LED readouts, advanced safety features, and a built-in 5V/2A USB charging port. Designed for professionals and hobbyists alike, its compact, lightweight form factor and intelligent cooling system ensure reliable, efficient performance across diverse applications from electronics repair to scientific research.
S**.
Works well at a great price
I bought this to help balance and charge my 2016 Prius C-type battery modules (not for the faint of heart-- make sure you do your homework before attempting this), and I have to say this power supply exceeded my expectations. It has a constant current mode and a constant voltage mode, but the interesting and convenient feature is that it switches automatically between these two modes according to the load you attach. If you set the max current to 2 amps, and the max voltage to 8.0 volts, it will deliver 2 amps while the battery voltage is at 7.7, 7.8, 7.9 and then when it reaches 8.0 volts it automatically switches to constant voltage mode and the current drops. It doesn't go to zero at first, because the battery was at 8.0v in part because of internal resistance, so the thing gently lowers the current and prevents the voltage from exceeding 8 volts. This was extremely convenient, as it allowed me to leave it unattended for periods of time without worry I would damage the modules by over charging. There are purpose-built battery chargers that will also do such things, with some added benefits of measuring the battery capacity in the process, but honestly I wasn't really interested in doing a deep exploration of every module, and I wanted to balance them all at once. Even quite expensive battery chargers can't produce the high current you need for large parallel banks of EV modules, so this ended up beating out the hobbyist battery charges so badly I returned those and I'm keeping this.The way I used it was to switch the whole battery from series to parallel by reversing the orientation of every other module (again-- you have to know what you are doing to try this, I have a degree in EE), and then I ran a 14 AWG wire connecting all the negatives together, and another connecting all the positives together. I just hooked up the power supply to the bank all at once. I set it to a max voltage of 8.0v and a max current of 4 amps (which divided by 20 battery modules is way below the 0.1C current standard), and then I could walk away and let the device do its thing. If you go to the trouble to check the output voltage delivered with the value that the unit displays on the screen, be sure to measure the voltage at the terminals-- as the voltage drop at 4A in the leads is significant. I found the readout to be decently accurate (though its only 2 decimal places past the decimal point, so not an ultra-high precision voltmeter by any means). I really like it. When its working hard, the fan turns on to prevent overheating, so it has a little personality to it to boot.It is a sign of the times that I was able to buy a $35 module, and a $30 power supply and then repair a hybrid battery that the repair shop wanted $3600 to fix. Today I have a perfectly working Prius C-type, a really sweet power supply, and $3535 dollars in my pocket. SMH.
R**Y
Good power supply for the money
Works as expected. Voltage verified to .02V with multi-meter. Adjustment knobs are not nearly as bad as some reviews suggest, but do require a degree of fine motor skill to fine tune. I've had no issues adjusting to 1/1000 increments. Suggest getting slightly heavier gauge wires / clips if using as a charger due to some warming at 10A, but nothing I would worry about as a fire hazard.
T**N
Controls are finicky but otherwise a good unit
If you can get it set to the output values you want, the supply provides good regulation and is capable of more output than most others at this price. The coarse and fine controls are mostly a nightmare though. You'd think they would mean Volts and millivolts or Amps and milliAmps. No. It just means "big adjustment" and "smaller adjustment". Dialing in precise values is a huge pain. These are pots, not rotary encoders. If you generally don't care about single milliVolts/milliAmps it'll be fine. If your OCD wants 1.000 on the current then this thing will drive you nuts.
R**G
Awesome power supply for all your needs.
Right out of the box it worked very well. It's easy to use and seems to be made well. I would recommend it.
S**T
Great equipment for the price.
works as expected, even when using the fine tune function. Allows me to test equipment before putting it in my projects.
K**
Great product
Surprisingly good for its size
J**N
A great basic power supply
This power supply works exactly as described and is very useful for testing/prototyping on the bench. The course/fine knobs make it very easy to set the voltage and amperage limit but they can be a bit sensitive. The on/off switch being separate from the "power output" toggle is very convenient allowing you to set the values before switching on the supply.
T**S
Never even turned on. Power cord is faulty.
I'm an electronics hobbyist, I bought this to power my projects. I just received this yesterday, was timely, had a chance to finish something I've been working on, go to turn on the power supply, and... nothing. Didn't even turn on. Thought maybe it was a problem with the outlet and tried several. Started getting worried and checked the instructions thinking I'd missed something. There are hardly any directions. Basically you push the power and it should turn on as you'd expect. Take the casing off and everything looks intact, nothing bouncing around or disconnected. Assume it has to be some central issue because like I said it didn't turn on at all. Tested the power cord with multimeter, and there's no output. No voltage. One prong has continuity, one doesn't.This is my first experience with ordering something from amazon that just doesn't work. The worst part is that it's a power cord, not an internal component. It wasn't battered or broken during transport, it's just a simple power cord that never worked to begin with.
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